Will costume design become the operator behind the film after studying abroad? Today, I would like to introduce three costume designers, each of whom is the operator behind the film! They should not only seek balance in a series of factors such as role setting, film plot development, lighting and dance beauty, but also carefully consider the clothing materials they use to "adapt to local conditions"!

In Breakfast at Tiffany's

Hepburn stood in front of the shop window drinking coffee

Absolutely one of the most classic scenes in film history

And Hepburn's little black dress

It also became famous

It has been popular till now

This little black dress is always

Pronouns of "My Fair Lady" and "Beautiful Woman"

In "The Unique Empress"

Extravagant court life and

Every look of Kirsten Dunst is also a classic

Whether it's details or shapes

It's amazing

Exquisite and meticulous

The role of clothing in film and television plays

Through the above two films

remarkable

Today, Mr. Guangguang will introduce you to three designers

Each of them

Are costume designers who have deeply influenced film history

Costume design

COSTUME DESIGN

Costume designers are probably among all designers

People who need the most thorough consideration

Established film proposition

Make their creation slightly passive

Not only In the role setting, plot development, lighting dance, etc

Seeking balance among a series of factors

Used by company Clothing material All have to be carefully considered

"Adjust measures to local conditions"

To some extent

An excellent costume designer

It's more like a Taiji warrior hiding behind the scenes

They are silent

But always get out of the way

Make a detour and control the whole situation

Their design not only Speak for the movie

It also permeates life

Even influenced the fashion trend of the whole era

1949

The 21st Oscar

The first Little Golden Man of the Best Costume Design Award

They were awarded to the black and white film Hamlet

And the color film Joan of Arc

Costume designer Dorothy Jeakins

Dorothy Jeakins (right) at the award ceremony

After that

How many times has the Best Costume Design Award been opened and closed

Take black and white movies and color movies as two directions

Until the 40th Academy Awards

There will be no separate awards based on color

And that means

The Oscar journey of costume designers will be more difficult

×Edith Head×

Edith Head, costume designer

Handheld eight Small Golden Man

Such achievements make her unmatched

"Professional Oscar Costume Designer"

Edith Head

But for ordinary audiences who don't know

Just read out Roman Holiday, Dragon and Phoenix

The names of these two movies

It's enough to be applauded

Remove the 8 golden statuettes

Edith Head won Oscar in his lifetime 35 nominations

A film directed by her as a costume director

It is even as high as More than 1000

Set the most brilliant record in Hollywood film history

Hepburn in Roman Holiday

Different from the overwhelming fashion brands

At that time, there were few fashion choices on the market

Basically, it needs to be customized

Edith Head as fashion guide

Every design has to be done personally

Her professional and rigorous work attitude and

Design that fits the character perfectly

It makes her have a good reputation in the industry

Many popular movie stars

all Roll call Edith Head for imperial use

She said that she would only act as a fashion designer

Hepburn in Roman Holiday

however

Edith Head under the halo once laughed at himself:

"In Hollywood

To become an excellent designer

You must also consider multiple identities

Psychiatrist, artist, fashion designer, tailor

The thread ball of the pin, historian, nanny, purchaser. "

Visible relative to fashion designers

Costume designers pay more attention Emotional expression of the character itself

His design is more about

From the visual performance of the role and the director's will

Hepburn looks in Dragon and Phoenix Match

Edith Head knows it well

Therefore, she never tires of

Communicate and coordinate with directors, screenwriters and other departments one by one

Final agreement

And this, perhaps, is one of the key factors for her achievement

"Costume designers are like magic

Dress up an actor as described in the script

They convinced the audience

The character in front

Is the character in the play

Not a movie star. "

Edith Head once said that.

Hepburn looks in Dragon and Phoenix Match

×Milena Canonero×

Speaking of movies Budapest Hotel

The first name that comes to mind for most people

Probably Wes Anderson

However, what little ONE thinks of is

Milena Canonero

This one is very colorful

Films with "symmetrical obsessive-compulsive disorder"

Not only pleased countless Virgo fans

The painting style with magic color

It is also impressive to remember

Stills of Budapest Hotel

Remove the director's uniqueness

Milena Canonero, a veteran costume designer

It can be said that the contribution is very important

She designed a purple three piece dress for Gustav

Make the picture more immersive

Instantly travel back to Europe in the 1930s and 1940s

And for the supporting actors' costumes

Milena Canonero did not snub

She asked Henkels to put on a long grey coat

Put on a red cloak for Mrs. D

These exquisite and bold designs

Make the magic of the whole film more "realistic"

Finally, Milena Canonero

Obtained The 87th Academy Award for Best Costume Design

The stills of the Empress

1970s

Milena Canonero has been engaged in costume design

Although not as experienced as Edith Head

but 9 nominations and 4 awards 's experience

It's also a proud achievement

Milena Canonero's production is not high

Quebu Department is a classic

Except Budapest Hotel

There are also things like Clockwork Orange, Shining 、

"The Great Empress" Waiting for many wonderful movies

The stills of "The Great Empress" and French classical painting

Many works participated by Milena Canonero

Are not linked to modern life

Therefore, as a costume designer

She must Fully understand the background of the whole film

And those in that era

Character characteristics, status, personality characteristics, etc

Understanding roles is just the beginning of design

What kind of clothes to wear

can Make the role conform to the background of the times

It is also in line with the audience's aesthetic

Keep the personality of the characters in the original story

And make sure not to dominate

Is the most important part to test the skill of costume designers

Still photo of Shining Spirit

Think back Milena Canonero's design in the film

I had to give her a standing ovation

——Has perfectly shaped the visual image of each character

Again Disruption in routine

Bring the audience a new aesthetic perspective and aesthetic enjoyment

×Catherine Martin×

Position of compression shaft

The Great Gatsby with a special GQ

——This one is all in one

Movies that set off the retro trend of the 1920s in the United States

Catherine Martin

in fact

"Gatsby" released in 2013

It's the fifth version of Gatsby in Hollywood

And designer Theoni V. Aldridge

By one of the versions

Took away the 47th Academy Award for Best Costume Design

These "lessons from the past"

Enough to make Costume designer Catherine Martin Sudden pressure increase

Even if she had Moulin Rouge, Australia in troubled times

Twice won the Oscar for Best Costume Design

The stills of Moulin Rouge

To complete The Great Gatsby

She and the director started filming three years ago

And began to shape the character

And the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York

And the library of Fashion Technology College

Catherine Martin smiled and said:

I would be like a detective

Baz Luhrmann, the film director, believes that

Because this novel was written in 1922

Published in 1925

But it also foreshadowed the economic collapse in 1929

So any element within this period (ten years)

All can be used for reference and borrowing

The stills of Moulin Rouge

This makes Catherine Martin's creation

More room to play

For example:

She chose to let the hero wear a narrow version of the suit

Rather than the typical suit of the early 1920s

Let women wear dresses in the late 1920s

She even put the popular stiletto high-heeled shoes of that era

Replaced with stiletto heels

Martin designed a total of 500 costumes for the film

Only for the hero Gatsby

42 sets of costumes were customized

14 weeks in total

Palace like luxury mansion

The high society that indulges in money

Everything

Catherine Martin and Baz Luhrmann

I just hope the audience can join them

Enjoy this dream

And this dream is also Catherine Martin

Won The 86th Academy Award for Best Costume Design

Today's summary

With the vigorous development of film market and fashion industry

These costume designers who once lived in seclusion

Gradually changed from the focus of the minority to the discussion of the public

At the same time, there are more and more top fashion designers

Start going behind the scenes

Add size to the costume

Become one of the operators behind the film

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